Look Book : Antar Anga Vol.IV - Fauna

Kanakavalli’s Antar Anga series, presented by The Ekavalli Foundation, continues to explore creative expressions of the various facets and components of the kanjivaram craft. From weave structure and colour to juxtapositions of form, we now turn to the kanjivaram’s motifs in Fauna, the fourth and latest edition. In this visual essay, stylistically influenced by classical Bharatanatyam and theatre, we reimagine the kanjivaram's Vanam Singaram forest scene as a magical woodland where a menagerie of motifs from the craft comes to life. 

On the kanjivaram, birds and animals co-exist beautifully on a single drape: the delicate mayil (peacock) perched beside a formidable simham (lion), or a maan (deer) prancing alongside a row of puli (tiger motifs). In Antar Anga: Fauna, the creatures of the wild are depicted living in harmony in the realm of Vana Devi, the goddess of the enchanted forest.

The narrative unfolds over the course of a day in this imaginarium; from the ethereal light of daybreak to the quiet of night. The birds and animals enter the Vana Devi’s mystical realm, interacting with one another and with the goddess herself, as the action rises to a climax. Each animal’s nature is revealed through their movements and actions: from the majesty of the yanai or elephant to the grace of the hamsam (swan) and role of the kili (parrot) as the messenger.

In the soft light of the gossamer dawn, a pair of Hamsams glides into a clearing in the woodland. The swan is a much loved motif, celebrated by Tamil poets and philosophers, and appearing across art, architecture and spiritual iconography. In mythology, the swan possesses the rare ability to separate milk from a mixture of milk and water, a metaphor for discerning the eternal truth from that which is illusory. On the kanjivaram, the Hamsam is the epitome of grace.

After the dance of the swans, a powerful, gentle creature enters the tableau. Revered as an auspicious symbol, the elephant has long been associated with royalty and with Lakshmi, the goddess of wealth. As Pillaiyar, the elephant-headed deity, it embodies wisdom and memory. Rows of elephants stand sentinel at the entrances of South Indian temples, their majestic forms appearing to hold up the structure they guard. On the kanjivaram, the yanai is a symbol of strength and protection. 

Quick, agile and light on their feet, the Maan bring a sense of lightheartedness with them as they enter the enchanted forest. The deer is woven by many strands into South Indian culture, and is a graceful motif on the kanjivaram. In the epic story of the Ramayana, the golden deer symbolises innocence and non-violence. Often depicted in the hand of Lord Shiva, the leaping deer represents the restless, wandering human mind over which the god has gained mastery. As the vehicle of Vayu, the god of wind, the maan is symbolic of life-force and speed.

As the deer scatter, a pair of peacocks wanders into the clearing, breathtaking in their beauty. The peacock is an auspicious symbol intrinsically woven into Tamil life. The peacock is depicted as the god Murugan’s vahana (sacred vehicle). The bird has long been a muse for artists and craftspeople, appearing across forms, from Thanjavur paintings and brass etchings to Sangam poetry. On the kanjivaram it is a beloved motif, while its colour lends itself to a favourite in the craft’s palette.

A Kili flutters into the forest on a gentle, evening breeze. The parrot holds a cherished place in Tamil culture, symbolising truth and the transmission of wisdom. Both the goddess Meenakshi and the poet-saint Andal are often depicted with a parrot in hand. The bird is also associated with Kama, the god of love. On the kanjivaram, parrots are often woven in pairs, perched upon borders and pallu. The bird is also beloved for its distinctive shade of parrot green.

Next, the Simham - the beast that all the forest's creatures have waited for with bated breath - makes its majestic entrance. The lion is a potent symbol of power and protection on the kanjivaram. In South Indian temples, the lion often manifests as the yali - a composite leonine figure - that fiercely stands guard. As the vahana of the goddess Durga, the lion represents the victory of righteousness over chaos. Across civilisations, the lion has been adopted as the insignia of rulers; a symbol of valour and protection.

Each creature of the kanjivaram – bird and beast – is rich in symbolism, with roots in South Indian mythology, culture and tradition. On the sari, these faunal motifs take on distinctive, stylistic forms, dotting the borders, beautifully enclosed within checks, perched upon borders or marching across pallus, all intricately embellished in rich zari or silken thread.

Explore these richly symbolic and much loved faunal motifs on the kanjivarams in Kanakavalli’s repertoire.
These visuals all come together beautifully in the Antar Anga: Fauna film; click below to watch it. 

Credits:

Story : Kanakavalli and Rishi Raj 
Creative Direction : Kanakavalli 
Styling : Devanshi Tuli 
Photography & Casting : Rishi Raj
Cinematography : Ishani Das
Soundscapes : Anup Bhat
Video Colorist : Gaurav Arora
HMU: Vishu Sinha with
Shang , Lawangtamang, Amit, Aparna
Movement Choreography : Divya Nayar
Ensemble : Priyadarsini Govind as Vanadevi 
with 
Kshiraja Manasvini S. and Sagana Murali as the Hamsam (Swans), 
Dhrisia R.G. as the Yanai (Elephant),
Himani Raypurmath, Mridhula Magalaxmi and Varsha Ramkumar as the Maan (Deer),
Shrinaagi Venkatesh and Sayujya Srinivasan as the Mayil (Peacock and Peahen),
Srimalli A. as the Kili (Parrot),
Manasi K. Bhatkhande as the Simham (Lion) 
Production Designer : Abhishek Kanade
Sets & Props : Elements Production
Production : Elements Production