Look Book : Antar Anga Vol III - Juxtapose
The latest volume in Kanakavalli’s Antar Anga series, titled Juxtapose, brings together two of the kanjivaram’s most definitive leitmotifs: weave (explored in Volume I: Intersect) and colour (the focus of Volume II: Chroma). In the third visual essay, these elements converge – interlacing the kanjivaram’s intricate woven grammar with its iconic colour palette to celebrate what defines the craft: its unabashed, joyful colour pairings.
The kanjivaram’s age-old weaving techniques enable unexpected permutations of colour through the warp and weft. Methods such as benth, pethni, and korvai involve meticulous yarn-jointing or laborious handwoven interlocks, manifesting an entirely new colour language unique to the kanjivaram. Here, hot pink is set against parrot green, mustard yellow boldly contrasts with royal blue, and other vivid shades appear in delightfully surprising juxtapositions. These combinations often rewrite traditional colour theory, and are powerful expressions of a South Indian design sensibility.
The kanjivaram’s vivid hues and their dramatic juxtapositions are deeply rooted in the region’s culture and consciousness, drawing inspiration from the rhythms and traditions of everyday life in the tropics. Consider how colours found side by side in a South Indian spice cabinet create striking contrasts on the kanjivaram – the vibrant yellow of pasu manjal (turmeric) set against the glowing chilli red of milagai, for example. Another unexpected yet beloved combination pairs a shade of blue that Kanchipuram’s weavers call copper sulphate with the hot pink of pattu roja (a pink rose). Antar Anga: Juxtapose amplifies the visual language of these striking pairings, using set design to further foreground colour.
Our visuals spotlight four colours, each derived from the primaries – MS Blue (a shade of middle-sea blue inspired by the legendary Carnatic vocalist M. S. Subbulakshmi), mambazham (a vivid mango yellow), magenta, and emerald green. These combinations – of colours that exist at opposing ends of the spectrum – lie at the root of the kanjivaram’s aesthetic. The use of elements like mirrored columns and geometric forms in the set echoes the interplay of hue and structure, reflecting the shifting horizons of the kanjivaram’s dramatic layout. The painted room becomes a metaphor for the dance of colour and weave, distilling the essence of the craft.
The kanjivarams curated to feature in and accompany this visual essay showcase bold colour contrasts, weave techniques, and detailing that underscore the sari’s sculptural geometry. The use of body paint in place of jewellery furthers this theme, mirroring the colours of both the set and the drapes to heighten contrast.
While drawing on the work of artists like Piet Mondrian, Mark Rothko and Ugo Rondinone, who explore juxtapositions of colour within structure, the central inspiration for this visual essay is the kanjivaram itself. In Juxtapose, there’s a sense of childlike playfulness. The colours feel primal and instinctive, drawn from a legacy of inherited sensibilities – an intuitive, generational understanding of colour that continues to shape the kanjivaram’s aesthetic.
Read more about the making of Antar Anga Vol III on the blog at Ekavalli Foundation.
Creative direction: Kanakavalli and Pranoy Sarkar
Photographer: Pranoy Sarkar
Cinematographer and Editor: Ishani Das
Production: Elements Production
Jewellery Partner: Nonamé Makings
Stylist and Casting: Devanshi Tuli
Makeup & Hair: Bishu Sinha
Sets: Abhishek Kanade and Elements Production
Models: Kripali , Vaishnavii , Aditi Anand, Mallika