Look Book : Antar Anga Vol I - Intersect

As the world grappled with the pandemic in different ways, we found ourselves slowing down and turning inward, reflecting on the building blocks of the kanjivaram weave—the interplay of warp and weft. The most elemental aspect of the kanjivaram’s aesthetic lies perhaps in its inherent geometry, evidenced in the form of the checks and stripes that adorn the drape. The riot of possibilities formed where warp and weft meet inspired Pranoy to experiment with a series of installations, creating multidimensional spatial experiences of the weave. Playing with material and structure, the installations blend in the human form and the kanjivaram sari, representing the union of warp and weft—its processes and interactions.

A selection of kanjivarams from Kanakavalli’s Kattam Vari collective of checks and stripes informed the entire look and aesthetic of the campaign. The saris have a strong sense of geometry and a stark colour palette; their bold layouts fitting seamlessly into the installations and beautifully tying together the visuals. While the installations resemble elements of the loom and the weave, the visuals are at once familiar and unfamiliar—taken out of their recognisable spaces and reimagined. In creating the installations, Pranoy has explored the entire gamut of the ways in which the craft can be represented and defined—not just with yarn and thread, but through the use of mirrors, the play of light and shadow, and the restructuring of form.

In this series, the installation does not turn into a backdrop for the models and the kanjivarams. Instead, the interaction between the model and the installation becomes the focal point, and the entire shoot is centred on this interactive space. Both the protagonist and the installations themselves shift and move—reflecting the movement of the weaver’s hand and elements of the loom. There are a few images in which the subject is taken out of the installation, and yet the essence of the installation remains—represented graphically or symbolically. 

The first installation of the series consists of vertical and horizontal panels of yarn, creating a three-dimensional cross-section of warp and weft. The different layers that combine to form a checked pattern allow the model protagonists to move within the weave; interacting with the yarn, shifting through a dynamic geometry. In a sense, the loom is broken down into its parts, and the parts are put together in a multidimensional structure where the tension of the loom comes beautifully to life—a visualisation of the kanjivaram’s very essence. 

Cascades of mirror surfaces strung together form the second installation, reminiscent of traditional ‘dobby cards’ that hold the code for the embellishment of the kanjivaram. The installation stays true to the format and proportion of the jacquard cards, but transforms the structure with mirrors within the interactive space. The reflective surfaces shift in the shadows, catching shards of lights, as the reflection of our model protagonists shift in and out of the frames, in and out of focus. The mirroring and refracting of fleeting images represents the circular nature of the craft—how the sari is handed from weaver to wearer, and then as an heirloom from one generation to the next; each exchange capturing stored memories and emotions. 

In the third installation, the straight lines of the loom are bent into an infinity loop—creating a bridge between the rigorous straight lines of a loom and the gentle undulating surfaces of the silk fabric. The bending of a linear frame into a complex structure lends this installation another dimension—one symbolising the idea of finding ourselves within time when it is bent out of recognisable shape. The visual is striking, as the geometry of checks and stripes remains stark even within the curves of the infinity loop. Again, our model protagonists set into this vortex, connecting with the surrounding yarnscape.

The fourth and final installation is a floating grid of laser checks and stripes that appear to be suspended in space. Here, the very essence of the weave—its warp and weft—transforms into light. The spatial experience of this installation is truly dynamic—as the protagonists connect with the shimmering lines of light, their touch sets of contact bursts of light. This symbolises the intimate connection between man and machine; how the loom pulses to life when set in motion by human hands.

Our protagonists wear a selection of gorgeous checked and striped kanjivarams from Kanakavalli’s Kattam Vari range. The saris feature only geometric patterns—striking and bold in their precision—with no figurative elements. The occasional zari embellishment takes the form of graphic panels that highlight the checks and stripes. The colour combinations have been thoughtfully calibrated to powerfully enhance the interaction between warp and weft. The dramatic geometry of these exquisite silk saris is echoed in the structured lines and edges of the installations. 

Read more about the making of Antar Anga Vol I on the blog at Ekavalli Foundation. 

Project Credits - 

Concept, Photography and creative direction: Pranoy Sarkar 

Styling and casting: Devanshi Tuli 

Hair and Makeup: Bishu Sinha 

Models: Jagruti Radhakrishna and Medha Singa 

Videography: Piyush More Production: The AJ Productions

Photography assistant and back stage photography: Mohit Bhatia

Styling assistants: Shivika Paliwal and Ayush Jain