Kanakavalli's October pick for The Beautiful Drape is a gorgeous kanjivaram that features classic motifs and patterns, traditional weave techniques, and an exquisite interplay of colour and zari.
The body of the sari is woven in plain silk with no embellishments, in a shot tone that lends the drape a rich depth and lustre. The contrast borders feature rows of dotted pearl-like muthu and vanki (inverted v-shaped patterns inspired by the South Indian armlet) enclosing a row of rudraksha laid out in a geometric pattern. This design composite is repeated on the other side of a band in silk, above which are moggu or flower bud designs and mopla patterns (three lines woven in a contrast hue to add detail and definition to border layouts). The pallu of the kanjivaram, attached in the benth technique, is embellished with salangai moggu (flower bud motifs inspired by anklet designs), vanki, kattu kamalam (lotus motifs within vertical lines), kuthirai or horse motifs with smaller horses perched upon them, and a row of mythical yali motifs, with a broad central band of diamond kann (eye) patterns. The salangai, kuthirai and yali motifs are woven in silk while the other patterns are all woven in gold zari. This use of coloured yarn interspersed with zari in the embellishment requires complex techniques, and the thoughtful choice of hues creates a beautiful visual effect in silk.
This kanjivaram, available in multiple striking colourways, features zari with a composition of 0.3% gold and 36% silver.