Kanakavalli's September pick for The Beautiful Drape is a stunning series of heirloom kanjivarams from our design-led Vault collective. Woven on a four-pedal loom in the ettu kol set up—in which a pattern is overlaid upon the base fabric of the sari—this kanjivaram requires the skill of a master weaver. The lifting sequence for this set-up, unlike on a two-pedal loom, is 1, 3, 2, 4 and even the slightest error could affect the accuracy of the design.
This edition, we bring you two variations of a gorgeous kanjivaram. Both feature weft-based checks in gold zari and contrast colours, executed using two complex weaving techniques. The horizontal stripes are woven in ettu kol, forming a delicate twill pattern laid over the base colour of the kanjivaram—not visible on the reverse side of the sari. The vertical stripes are woven in a different technique, forming what is known as a benarasi design. Together the checks create an exquisitely detailed, textured visual effect on the fine silk.
The borders feature two sets of lines known as seeru, enclosing delicate mutthu seeru in gold zari, wrapped around a vanki or chevron pattern in rich zari. The top of the border is lined by tiny gold bhugodi triangles, inspired by temple architecture.
One sari's pallu features seeprekku and geometric designs in ettu kol, while the other is woven with kuthirai or horse motifs in the adai technique, lending exquisite relief to the pattern. Available in several colourways, this month’s Beautiful Drape features rich zari with a silver content of 50%.