Kanakavalli's November pick for The Beautiful Drape is an exquisite kanjivaram showcasing a delightful interplay of colour and detail, from the design-led Vault collective of heirloom kanjivarams that immortalise the craft.
The body of the sari is woven in the laborious ettu kol technique, using a four-pedal loom to lay a twill pattern in a different colour upon the base fabric of the sari - which is visible on the borders and pallu. Thus, without using the korvai technique, the contrast and textured border effect is deftly achieved. Delicate kamalam or lotus buttis in gold zari dot the body of the kanjivaram, the only zari on this drape.
The borders and pallu of the kanjivaram, in the same colour as the base fabric of the body, feature classic embellishments. A central band of mayil kann (peacock eye) motifs adorns the borders, with vanki patterns, thuthiripoo motifs, muthu seeru and a row of bhugodi triangles on either side. The pallu features a central reku band ending in temple forms woven in the ettu kol technique, flanked by yanai (elephant) and kuthirai (horse) motifs, with floral patterns in between. The embellishments are woven in tonal hues, contrast colours as well as in the same shade as the ettu kol weave on the body.
The exquisite play on colour stands out on this month's The Beautiful Drape. Woven entirely in silken yarn, the weave technique lends the sari rich variations in texture and tone.